How to Frame a Stud Wall
Laying out, assembling, and raising a wood stud wall — from bottom plate layout to plumbing, bracing, and sheathing.
Step-by-Step
- 1
Snap chalk lines for wall location
Snap chalk lines on the subfloor for the inside and outside edges of the bottom plate. Verify the layout is square to the building using the 3-4-5 triangle method or by measuring diagonals. Confirm wall dimensions match the floor plan.
- 2
Cut top and bottom plates
Cut both plates to the same length simultaneously by stacking them. Mark stud layout on both plates together at 16 or 24 inches OC, starting from the same end. Transfer all opening locations and corner assemblies to both plates at the same time.
- 3
Mark stud layout
Mark stud locations with an X on the same side of every mark. Standard 16-inch OC layout means first mark at 15.25 inches from the end (so the center of the first stud is at 16 inches). Every subsequent mark is 16 inches from the last.
- 4
Frame openings in the plate
Mark king stud, trimmer stud, and cripple locations on both plates for every door and window opening. King studs run full height; trimmer studs support the header; cripples fill above the header at regular spacing.
- 5
Assemble the wall flat on the deck
Lay plates parallel on the deck at the correct spacing (stud length apart). Nail studs to plates with two 16d nails through the plate into the end of each stud. Build door and window openings with headers, kings, and trimmers while the wall is flat.
- 6
Raise and set the wall
Tip the wall up into position with enough crew for the length. Walk the wall up, seat the bottom plate on the chalk line, and toenail it to the subfloor while a helper holds it plumb. Immediately install temporary kicker braces at 45 degrees to the floor.
- 7
Plumb and brace
Use a 4-foot level or plumb bob to check the wall for plumb in both directions. Adjust the kicker braces until the wall is perfectly plumb. Double-nail the bottom plate to the floor (or foundation). Leave braces in place until the wall is sheathed.
- 8
Install double top plate
Nail the first layer of top plate to the studs. Lap the second layer over wall intersections and corners to tie the framing together. Lap joints must be offset at least 4 feet from corners and from each other.
- 9
Install sheathing
Apply OSB or plywood sheathing with long dimension vertical. Start from a corner, leave a 1/8-inch gap between panels, and nail at 6 inches OC on edges and 12 inches in the field (or per shear wall schedule). Stagger vertical joints.
Pro Tips
- → Frame all walls before raising any of them — it's faster and you can check dimensions before the walls are standing.
- → Snap a second chalk line 3.5 inches inside the first to give yourself a target for the inside edge of the plate.
- → Crown your studs the same direction. A wall with random crown is a nightmare to drywall.
- → Check for square one final time after raising by measuring diagonal dimensions at the top plate.
Watch Out
- ! Do not raise walls without adequate crew — a falling wall can kill.
- ! Never remove temporary braces until the wall is sheathed and the structure is self-supporting.